Method for use in the manufacturie of shoes



1. BRUNELL.

METHOD FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES. APPLICATKON FtLHJ JULY 25, um.

Patented June 6, 1922.

To all whom gancmrn:

Be it known t at loam 3111mm a. citizen of the Un'ted States, 4

Brooklyn, Kings County State of ew York, have invented certain Improvements This-invention relates to methoiis of unak- 1 ing ho'es and pa'n'ticnla ly .to .methoilsof 4mtalningithe llgEPBl'fi-OfShOBS in; r, os'rtion 'iiut'ing oemeking opqi'atlons 'su ias lasting, the method flim of speciel utility in connection with 'lestmg l the ngpers of pumps o'rrelippers. U

In the case of a. high -0l-O1f0lfdh06 -the upper is, of course, supportedby'theblittons or lacing flies which v are fastened to "the:- over'the. instep'before5they arefa'ssemb ad-on a last. In=ehoes of thepn nplor slippent. however, there is no such supp01rt im d: e upper since no part of the upper extends over the instep andhence in lasting-the .n per of such a hoe'overits last it isxlesimh e w orarily, durin the lestingopomtion, .to hol the upper-in it s'houltl occq y onithel :It is undesiriibletofesten t e upperof eflpump=tothellaet by tacks insertedithroqfh the upper an'diinto the lest'to hold it in p' we since 'suchnz pnocedure' woula result in" injhr'y toathe 1161168 metei-ial'o'f which such uppers are usually made.

Objects of the present invention are .to provide a. method-ofhol'tli in placethquper of a llo'e in pro r etlon tofthe lat guring operations sue :as lasting whic'h-tenizl to displace the upper on the laat, slndto p rm viiie a method winch, whilqperhlittingztmks tobe usetl as the actual means "for-ho roux,

'flliecfledtion'df mm Iaten't. Application men m eproper positionyihih rum hmmon m. warm or axons;

1am. Elezldl No. 488,194.

forum; insuchn position that a or- .mnfo e pzeeezpro'ects'orris e osedpa': ove line of lthe anger on the l snst. These pieces of-material one ferred to as detacha 1e tabs. pnqwdad with detachable tabs 1 is onnts lastain ,pmper gposi'tiommdithe exposed port ons (of the tabs' secured-Ito 'the fleet by qneanswuch ra'stacks. flhe upper is then :euluectad ito (the usual shoc'Imrkm-g openitione, :such res :lastin fby :which the anal-'- gmtof-therqpfper is-won dlowerithelest bottom and secured e nd if the=sh0e is alwelt shoe the tusual ilnseemzng, trimming, ."fillin 'and sole, attaching operations including, if clesired, (the attachment of :a heel,: may be carlflQdiOLllSbEfOh the last. When the qperationsmpon the shoe heveifadvaneed=to thespeint Where itis necessasz :to immune the .last ham ther "shoe-the ta sghdlding thetzibsitolthe last ai'erremoved and qthe-tlastgp'ulled. l heitabs are then rc-. n ovefi "fkcm :the .bY tearing them ofi when, zfioninstancyt e-ttlhs aresecuredto the ngper'byza-eeamzof' weak thnead orzby ravelin gtoutithe mam na e be readily done :if thGttKbSlB-ZfitfifiijlllffldiO'lfiB HPPBJPBLYSL chainstitch eseam. lpiecesaor tabs may :be emeeg'sin upomdifierent upsWlllIlOlIt.

An n?) or assem' ed ithe shoe having: been Idmg pr e'ferdhl y of scraps 20f leather or fabric the upper to thelast, does not maint ininj ury to the upper or encumber the shoe'wlren finished with any'extra material.

With these objects in view the methodris carried out as herein illustratedhy eechring to the upper,. preferably to the inner' layertor lining, :L iece of leather or other suit ible materiail, y means which maybe readily vihih one of little @use sfor any other puruzing pose. I) the-openations'of-sewin together :partsof =the A; .per in the xstito ing room .two of :these to s were sewed one on weaxih =Sifie d'f tlre cl pper 16 and .prefenably to the innerfllnyer-nrllning8-.ofrthe upper only by aseam ..10 in such location that when the upperismssembled upon its lasts the tabs will Patented J me fi, 1922.

be mppmpriately we shqeis removedfrom the extend along each side of the upper between the ball line and heel breast line and will project above the top line 12 of the upper a. convenient distance. In sewing" on the tabs a relatively weak thread may be used so that after the tabs have served their purpose they may be readily ripped,

off. Another very convenient'way of detachably securin the proper loose'cndl'l of the thread. 'By

this method no trace of the securing means through the exposed portion of-the tabs ex tending above the to line 12 ofthe-upp'er and into the last. .T 1e upper is then lasted in any usual manner. During' the'lastin'g of the sides of the u per the tabs 2 L, h'el to the last by the tacrslti', serve-to hold the top line of the upperin thepositioniu which it has been secured and prevent displacement of the top line of the uper when the upper is put under strain by"- asting pincers or other lasting instrumentalities. After the upper is lasted the shoe may be completed in t 1e usual manner, for instance, by welting, fillin attaching the outsole, and heeling, or on y such of these operations as are to be performed with the shoe on the last may be carried out. Then the lasting tacks 16 are removed and the last pulled out. At any time after the lastis pulled the tabs may be removed either'hy ripping the seam by which they are held to t e upper or by unraveling the seam, in case it is ruled by a chain-stitch, by pulling the unlocked end 14 of the thread. Preferably the tabs are saved after removal and sent back to the stitching room to be used again-for the same purpose in other uppers.

By this method it is pbssible properl to last the sides of a shoe upper and todi'aw the upper to the wood in the shank without danger of displacing the top edge'ofthe 11 per and destroying the lines 'of the shoe. h oreover, a shoe thus lasted will hold better to the foot and will not bulge away from the foot whenworn, thus insuring better appearance, longer wearing ualities and more comfort to the wearer. hese results are highly desirable, particularly in a ump in which the fitting of the top line to t e wearthe tabs is to employ a chain-stitch, as shown in Fig. 1, so that the tabs may be removed simply by pulling onforinin g the tabs from the net, removing the last,

11 the last with theback seam ers foot is depended upon to hold the shoe upon the foot.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoesxvhich'ronsists in attaching tabs to an upper, assembling the upper upon a last, attaching the tabs to the last to maintain the 11 per in position on the last, pershoemakin 1 operations, detaching and finally detaching the tabs from the up- 2. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in attaching tabs to theupper on opposite sides of the shoe in position-to extend above the top line of the upper, assembling the upper upon a last, attaching the tabs to the last to maintain the position of the top line, lasting the shoe,- detaching the, tabs from the last, removing the last, and finally detaching the tabs from the upper.

3. That improvement in methods of makin shoes whichconsiste in chain-stitching ta s to then per on opposite sides of the shoe, assembling the up er upon a last, at taching the tabs to the sist to maintain the position of the top line, lasting the shoe, detaching the tabs from the lust, removing the last, and finally ravelin r the chain'- st-itches to permit removal of t e tabs from the u or t. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in sewing to the upper upon opposite sides of the shoe pieces of material in position to be exposed above the top line of the upper, assemblin the upper upon a last, securing the exposed portions of the pieces to the last so as to prevent the upper from being dis laced by the strain of lasting the'up er, t en lasting the upper, detaching the to s from the last, rcmovin the lost, and destroying the seam which holds the pieces to the upper.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in sewing to the lining or inner layer of the upper upon opositc sides of the shoe pieces of material in position to be exposed above the top line of the upper, asseinblingthe upper upon a last, seeming the exposed portions of the pieces to the last so as to prevent the upper from being displayed by the strain of lasting the u per, then lusting the upper, detaching tie tabs from the last, removing the last, and destroying the seam which holds the pieces to the upper to permit removal of the pieces.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in sewing pieces of material by chain-stitch seam to the upper upon opposite sides of the shoe in position to be exposed above the top line of the up per, assembling the upper upon a last, securing the exposed portions of the pieces to the iiLSt so as to prevent the upper from being displavcd by the strain of lasting the upper. then lasting the upper, detaching the tabs from thv last, removing the last, and raveling the seam which holds the pieces JOSEPH BRUNELL.

Certificate of Correction.

It is hereby certified that in butters Patent No. 1,418,355). granted June 64 1922.

upon the application of Joseph H. Brnncll, of Brooklym New York for an improvement in Methods for Umin the Mzumf'uviure ni' Shoes, an error appears in the printed specification requiring voi'iection us l'ulluws: Page 2, line 120, (him 5, for the word displayed rrzul displaced; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this mrrvvtinn therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent ()flice.

Signed and sealed this 11th day of July, A. 1)., 1922.

- [emu] KARL F ENNING,

Acting C'omwm'ssioner of Patents. 

